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(Including the 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine)

The internet is full of pictures of perfect Korean glass skin, 10+ products on a shelf, and the famous “10-step Korean skincare routine”.

But what do Koreans actually do in real life?
Is everyone really using 10 products every single day?

This guide gives you an honest, realistic explanation of a Korean skincare routine:

  • what the 10 steps actually are

  • what each step does

  • which steps are essential and which are optional

  • how real people in Korea simplify their routine


What a “Real” Korean Skincare Routine Looks Like

Let’s start with the truth:

Most Koreans do not use all 10 steps every morning and night.

Instead, a real routine usually looks like this:

  • Morning: 3–5 steps (cleanser or just water, toner, maybe serum, moisturiser, SPF)

  • Evening: 4–7 steps (makeup remover, cleanser, toner, treatment, moisturiser, sometimes eye cream or mask)

The famous 10-step routine is more like a toolbox:

  • 10 possible steps

  • you pick what your skin needs that day or that season

The core philosophy is:

Gentle, consistent care + sun protection + hydration.
Not “more products no matter what.”


The 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine – Overview

Here are the classic 10 steps in order:

  1. Oil-based cleanser
  2. Water-based cleanser (foam/gel)
  3. Exfoliator (physical or chemical)
  4. Toner
  5. Essence
  6. Serum / ampoule
  7. Sheet mask
  8. Eye cream
  9. Moisturiser (cream, gel, lotion)
  10. Sun protection (SPF) – in the morning

 

Now let’s go through each step with simple explanations.


Step 1: Oil Cleanser – Removing Makeup & Sunscreen

What it is:
An oil-based cleanser or balm that dissolves:

  • sunscreen

  • foundation and BB cream

  • mascara, eyeliner, lipstick

  • excess sebum

Why it matters:
SPF and long-wearing makeup are often water-resistant. A normal face wash can’t fully remove them. Oil binds to oil and melts everything without harsh rubbing.

Who needs it:

  • If you wear makeup or heavy sunscreen → yes

  • If you don’t wear anything and have dry/sensitive skin → you can often skip this and use only a gentle cleanser


Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser – Washing the Skin Itself

What it is:
A gel or foam cleanser with water, used after the oil cleanser (or alone, if you didn’t use oil).

Why it matters:

  • removes sweat, light dirt, and leftover oil cleanser

  • gives a clean base for treatments and moisturiser

This “double cleansing” (oil + water-based cleanser) is one of the key ideas in Korean skincare. It helps keep pores clear without using harsh scrubs.

Tip:
Choose a low pH, gentle cleanser to avoid stripping your barrier.


Step 3: Exfoliator – But Not Every Day

What it is:

  • Physical exfoliator: scrub with small particles

  • Chemical exfoliator: AHA, BHA, PHA, etc.

What it does:

  • removes dead skin cells

  • helps with texture, dullness, and clogged pores

  • makes skin smoother so products absorb better

How often:

  • usually 1–2 times per week, not daily

  • sensitive skin: sometimes even less

In a real Korean routine, exfoliation is treated like a special care step, not something you do morning and night.


Step 4: Toner – Hydration and pH Balance

What it is:
A watery liquid used after cleansing. Korean toners are often hydrating, not just alcohol-based “astringents”.

What it does:

  • adds the first layer of hydration

  • helps rebalance pH after cleansing

  • prepares skin so serums and essences absorb better

Some people use a cotton pad (lightly sweeping), others pat the toner directly with hands.

Real-life tip:
Many Koreans don’t think of toner as “optional” – it’s often a standard step, especially for dry or dehydrated skin.


Step 5: Essence – The Heart of Korean Skincare

What it is:
A very lightweight, watery or slightly viscous product with active ingredients, somewhere between toner and serum.

What it does:

  • deeply hydrates

  • helps with skin repair, radiance, texture

  • often contains fermented ingredients, soothing agents, or light anti-ageing components

Essence is one of the most “Korean” steps. It reflects the focus on layering hydration instead of only applying a thick cream.

Real talk:
You don’t need both toner and essence – but many people love this combo because it’s hydration without heaviness.


Step 6: Serum / Ampoule – Targeted Treatments

What it is:
A more concentrated treatment product focusing on specific skin concerns:

  • brightening (e.g. vitamin C, niacinamide)

  • acne control (e.g. BHA, tea tree, centella)

  • anti-ageing (e.g. peptides, retinol, adenosine)

  • barrier repair (e.g. ceramides, panthenol)

What it does:

  • delivers active ingredients deeper into the skin

  • targets pigment spots, fine lines, breakouts, redness, etc.

Most real routines include at least one serum or ampoule, especially in the evening.

Tip:
Don’t use too many active serums at once. Korean skincare is about consistent, gentle progress, not burning your face.


Step 7: Sheet Mask – Occasional “Skin Treat”

What it is:
A fabric or hydrogel mask soaked in essence/serum, worn for 10–20 minutes.

What it does:

  • boosts hydration

  • soothes irritation or dryness

  • gives a “glow” effect before events

In Korean dramas, it looks like people mask every night. In reality:

  • many people use sheet masks 1–2 times per week, or before special days

  • some do more during cold winter or exam/work stress

It’s a nice-to-have, not mandatory.


Step 8: Eye Cream – Extra Care for the Eye Area

What it is:
A cream or gel formulated for the thin skin around the eyes.

What it does:

  • gives extra moisture

  • may help with fine lines, puffiness or darkness (to a point)

Some dermatologists say a gentle moisturiser is enough; others like separate formulas. In practice, many Koreans:

  • use eye cream at night

  • apply just a tiny amount with a light tapping motion

It’s an optional upgrade, not the foundation of good skin.


Step 9: Moisturiser – Locking Everything In

What it is:
Cream, gel, emulsion or lotion that seals in previous layers.

What it does:

  • prevents water loss

  • protects the skin barrier

  • adds comfort (no tight feeling)

You choose texture based on skin type and climate:

  • oily / combo: light gel or lotion

  • normal / dry: cream

  • very dry / winter: thicker cream or sleeping mask

In a real Korean routine, moisturiser is non-negotiable, especially at night.


Step 10: Sunscreen (SPF) – The Most Important Step

What it is:
Broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30+ or 50), used in the morning as the final step.

Why it matters:

  • protects against UV damage

  • prevents premature ageing (wrinkles, spots, sagging)

  • essential when using active ingredients (acids, retinol, vitamin C)

Korean sunscreen formulas are often:

  • lighter

  • more elegant under makeup

  • more comfortable for everyday use

That’s why SPF is a core part of the real Korean skincare philosophy.


Morning vs Evening: How the 10 Steps Look in Real Life

Realistic Morning Routine (4–6 steps)

A typical Korean-inspired morning might look like:

  1. Gentle cleanser or just water

  2. Toner

  3. Essence or serum

  4. Moisturiser (optional if SPF is moisturising enough)

  5. Sunscreen (SPF) – non-negotiable

Optional extras: eye cream, spot treatment, mist.

Realistic Evening Routine (5–8 steps)

A realistic night routine might be:

  1. Oil cleanser (if you wore makeup/SPF)

  2. Water-based cleanser

  3. Toner

  4. Essence

  5. Serum/ampoule (or two, layered carefully)

  6. Eye cream

  7. Moisturiser or sleeping mask

  8. Sheet mask (a few times per week instead of serum or in addition)

Nobody’s skin needs every product every day. The secret is to adjust.


How to Build Your Own Korean Skincare Routine (Without Overdoing It)

If you’re new to Korean skincare, start simple:

Step 1: Focus on the Core 4

Begin with:

  1. Cleanser (gentle)

  2. Toner (hydrating)

  3. Moisturiser

  4. SPF (morning)

Get your barrier and hydration right first.

Step 2: Add One Treatment

Then add one serum or ampoule for your main concern:

  • acne → BHA, tea tree, centella

  • redness → centella, panthenol, mugwort

  • dullness → niacinamide, vitamin C

  • anti-ageing → peptides, retinol (slowly!)

Step 3: Add Extras Only If Needed

Once your skin is happy, you can add:

  • oil cleanser (if you use makeup/SPF)

  • essence (if you like extra hydration)

  • sheet masks (for pampering or recovery days)

Always add one new product at a time and patch test if you have sensitive skin.


Key Principles of a Real Korean Skincare Routine

To finish, remember that Korean skincare is not just “10 steps” – it’s a philosophy:

  1. Consistency over intensity
    Gentle products, used regularly.

  2. Hydration in layers
    Thinner hydrating steps instead of one thick heavy cream.

  3. Sun protection is essential
    Good skin is almost impossible without daily SPF.

  4. Listen to your skin, not the trend
    Some days you might do 7 steps, other days 3. That’s normal.

If you understand these principles, you can build a routine that is:

  • inspired by Korea

  • realistic for your lifestyle

  • healthy for your skin type